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Adventures West
4 Family Road Trips
Grand Canyon
Northern Plains
Yellowstone
Pacific Northwest
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Enjoy the scenery on the Grand Canyon Railway |
All Aboard for the Grand Canyon, and Beyond
by Johnny D. Boggs
Train whistles fill the morning air in Williams, Ariz., and I don’t
mean a screaming steam blast from No. 4960, the circa-1923 locomotive that once hauled freight and coal
and is currently in service by the Grand
Canyon Railway. I’m talking about the
wooden whistles boys and girls—and a
few adults, too—are enjoying as they
toot away in preparation for one of the
West’s most popular train rides.
These folks are onto something. If
you’re visiting Grand Canyon National
Park, there’s no better way to get there
than rocking and rolling along on the
vintage Grand Canyon Railway line.
From Memorial Day through Labor Day
weekend, steam engines transport riders
up 65 miles of track to the canyon’s South Rim. Vintage diesel locomotives run the route for the rest of the year.
Travelers are likely to be serenaded by a minstrel roaming among the passenger cars, given a history lesson by one of
the train’s crew, or even victimized— all in good fun—by outlaws during a staged
shootout. All while enjoying the view as
the train moves from high desert to pine
forests.
“Look at those elk!” an excited father
points out to his family.
Since making its first trip to the Grand
Canyon in 1901, the railroad has carried a who’s who of passengers—including presidents Roosevelt (both Teddy and Franklin), Taft, and Eisenhower. Today,
the train transports more than 295,000 visitors to the park each year.
There’s more to Williams than the train, however, and the city often celebrates its history as an Old West town
and Historic Route 66 stop. Wild West Junction offers family fun with historical
reenactments and a chuck wagon dinner theater. You can also
hang your hat for the night at the Drover’s Hotel before heading north to
the Grand Canyon.
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If you don’t feel like riding the rails, it’s an easy drive up state Highway 64 to
the Grand Canyon, and the views of this
geologic wonder— 277 river miles long,
up to 18 miles wide, and a mile deep—
are truly spectacular. A good starting
point is the 34-minute Grand Canyon
movie shown in the IMAX Theater at the
National Geographic Visitor Center.
After that, there are plenty of options.
Most of the park’s 5 million annual
visitors experience the view from the
South Rim’s overlooks. Guided bus tours are available, as are half-, one- and two-day mule trips, horseback trail
rides from Grand Canyon Apache Stables, and ranger-led guided hikes.
For the truly adventurous, whitewater and flat-water rafting trips can be
scheduled through various commercial outfitters, and typically run from three days to almost three weeks (book far in
advance). Helicopter and airplane tours, all based outside of the park, are also offered daily, but be warned: If your stomach felt queasy during the flying scenes in the IMAX film, a helicopter
ride might not be right for you.
If you’re looking to leave the crowds behind, head for the North Rim. Few of the park’s visitors travel the 215 miles by
car (or 21 strenuous miles by foot alongthe North and South Kaibab Trails) from the South Rim to the North Rim, but the
solitude and tranquility of the Kaibab Plateau is worth the effort. Watching the sunset here is something even the littlest in your family will remember for a lifetime.
Keep in mind, however, that North Rim facilities are open only from mid- May to mid-October, and Highway 67 is often closed from late autumn to late spring because of snow. Back on the South Rim, rooms are available at various lodges, including the 78-room El Tovar Hotel, which opened its doors in 1905. Campsites can be found at both Desert View and Mather
campgrounds.
From the Grand Canyon, head south to Flagstaff, Ariz. for a mix of Route 66 kicks
and Wild West charm. Flagstaff has long been family friendly, with one-of-a-kind
lodging at the historic Weatherford and Monte Vista hotels, or the more modern Little America. Enjoy nature at The Arboretum at Flagstaff, a 200-acre botanical garden and nature preserve in Flagstaff, and learn about our solar system at the Lowell Observatory, where Pluto was discovered in 1930. Dinosaur
buffs shouldn’t miss the Therizinosaur exhibit—one of the newest and most
mysterious dinosaur species found in North America—at the Museum of
Northern Arizona. Flagstaff’s also a good home base for day trips to Sunset Crater
Volcano, Walnut Canyon, and Wupatki national monuments.
A visit to Grand Canyon country, however, isn’t complete without making
a short drive south to Sedona, Ariz. and Oak Creek Canyon in Coconino
National Forest. The area’s red rock vistas have attracted filmmakers since Zane Grey’s silent film The Call of the
Canyon was shot here in 1923. Other movies include John Wayne’s Angel and
the Badman and James Stewart’s Broken Arrow. Visitors enjoy the Sedona’s shopping and outdoor adventures.
After all that traveling and sight-seeing,
relax and cool off with a slide down the
natural water chute at Slide Rock State
Park before heading for home.
CONTACTS
Arizona Office of Tourism:
1-866-275-5816; www.azot.gov
Flagstaff Convention and Visitors Bureau:
1-800-379-0065; www.flagstaffarizona.org
Grand Canyon National Park:
(928) 638-7888; www.nps.gov/grca
Grand Canyon Railway:
1-800-843-8724; www.thetrain.com
Sedona Chamber of Commerce:
1-800-288-7336; www.sedonachamber.com
Williams-Grand Canyon Chamber of Commerce:
1-800-863-0546; www.williamschamber.com
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Explore the northern plains |
Explore the Northern Historic Plains top
by Candy Moulton
Cowboys and buffalo hunters gave
Dodge City, Kan., a rowdy reputation
in the 19th century as they took advantage of its saloons and dance halls. Today you can enjoy a re-creation
of its Old West business district that’s, thankfully, suitable for all ages. To get an overview of the city take a historic trolley tour and visit Boot Hill Museum. All members of your family are sure to enjoy the Gunfighters Wax Museum, as well.
Leaving Dodge City, head northeast toward Hays, Kan., and make a stop at Fort Larned National Historic Site, one of the best-preserved frontier-era forts. Situated on the Santa Fe Trail, the fort was important during the Indian Wars as a military base.
Continue north to Fort Hays State Historic Site, another well-preserved Indian Wars-era outpost. Both Wild Bill Hickok and George Armstrong Custer spent time here. Hickok eventually moved north into Nebraska, where he worked as a station tender, but our route takes us along U.S. 183 north to the Platte River just west of Kearney, Neb.,
where you can visit Fort Kearny (yes, the spelling is different), the first emigrant post on the Oregon Trail. A visit to the Great Platte River Road Archway, a
span built over the interstate to commemorate the Oregon Trail, will give your crew an idea of what it was like to
travel by wagon train across the plains.
Continue west to Ogallala, Neb.,
another important cow town. Front Street has been recreated in its Old
West glory, and this area has its own Boot Hill. From Ogallala, follow a section of the Oregon-California-Mormon
pioneer roads west by taking U.S. 26 to Bridgeport, Neb. You can take a short detour to see Chimney Rock National
Historic Site and Scotts Bluff National Monument, two important emigrant trail sites, or turn north onto U.S. 385 toward Chadron, Neb. A must-see stop in Chadron is the Museum of the Fur Trade with its impressive collection of fur trader gear and Indian artifacts.
Detour west to Crawford, Neb., and Fort Robinson, one of the most important military posts in the region. After Oglala Sioux Chief Red Cloud signed the 1868 Fort Laramie Treaty, he and his band of followers lived at various agencies, including one just east of Fort Robinson. Here, too, Crazy Horse was stabbed and killed in 1877. The barracks
have been restored, and your family will enjoy bunking in cabins and quarters once used by soldiers stationed at the fort. In the summer, the fort offers horseback riding, stagecoach rides, museums, and a restaurant.
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Drive back toward Chadron and follow
U.S. 385 into the Black Hills of
South Dakota. This is the region the
Lakotas fought to retain, and when you
spend time in these beautiful hills,
you’ll begin to understand why. A great place to take the kids is Custer State
Park, with its large buffalo herd. You can
also drive the Needles Highway (S.D.
87) to get your first glimpse of Mount
Rushmore National Monument.
The kids will love digging for mammoth bones near Hot Springs, S.D. at the
world’s largest mammoth research center. Cool off with a swim and a slide at Evans Plunge afterwards. You can also
ride the 1880s train out of Hill City, S.D., visit Crazy Horse Memorial—where a likeness of the chief and his horse are being carved out of rock. Bear Country USA, as advertised, has bears and other animals on display. You can guess what’s at Reptile Gardens.
From the Black Hills, head east along I-90 toward Pierre, South Dakota’s state capital. Make a stop at Wall Drug, where you’ll find Western wear, stuffed Jackalopes, and other unique souvenirs. The route between Fort Pierre ( just west of Pierre) and Deadwood, S.D. was an important trail in the 19th century. This year a wagon train will follow the same route, arriving in Deadwood in mid-August for a grand celebration.
Leave Pierre and travel north on U.S. 83 to Bismarck, N.D. Interesting stops
here include Camp Hancock State Historic Site, the North Dakota Heritage Center, and Keelboat Park. Cross the Missouri River to Mandan, N.D., to visit Fort Abraham Lincoln State Park and the Custer House. The McKeen Blockhouses, and On-a-Slant
Village are also nearby.
Conclude your journey farther west
in North Dakota at Medora, where you
can attend the Medora Musical, performed
nightly in an outdoor venue during the summer; visit the North Dakota Cowboy Hall of Fame; and take a
driving tour through Theodore Roosevelt National Park. The park, in the Little Missouri River Badlands, includes portions of Roosevelt’s ranchland and is home to wild horses, bison, and elk.
CONTACTS
City of Dodge City, Kansas:
(620) 225-8100, www.dodgecity.org
Nebraska Game and Parks Commission:
(402) 471-0641, www.ngpc.state.ne.us
Mount Rushmore National Memorial:
(605) 574-2523, www.nps.gov/moru
The Mammoth Site:
(605) 745-6017, www.mammothsite.com
Black Hills Central Railroad:
(605) 574-2222, www.1880train.com
North Dakota Heritage Center:
(701) 328-2666, www.nd.gov
Fort Abraham Lincoln State Park:
(701) 667-6340, www.parkrec.nd.gov
Theodore Roosevelt National Park:
(701) 623-4730 ext. 4466, www.nps.gov/thro
Park-hop through the Yellowstone Region top
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Hiking back up out of Yellowstone River canyon. |
by Candy Moulton
A family trip to Yellowstone is as classic as it gets. Just as they have
for more than 100 years, visitors stream in by the thousands to explore hot springs, geysers, and the all-around
stunning scenery of the country’s first national park, which opened in 1872.
With that tradition in mind, start your journey on a historic note and enjoy a
day or two at the Gallatin Gateway Inn, which dates to 1927 and the heyday of rail travel to the park.
Once you have your bearings, take a
day trip to nearby Bozeman, Mont.Montana State University’s Museum of
the Rockies is filled with enough activities to keep even the most energetic kids
occupied for several hours, including a living history farm, the 1889 Tinsley
House, and the Taylor Planetarium.
From Bozeman, head east on I-90 to
Livingston, Mont., then turn south onto
U.S. Hwy. 89 and drive through Paradise Valley. Although you haven’t covered a
great distance by the time you reach Chico Hot Springs, it’s worth a stop to release the car-bound kids
and let them swim in the mineral pools while you enjoy a hot
soak. Continue on to Yellowstone for a family campout.
Enter Yellowstone at Gardiner, Mont., and drive to the park
headquarters at Mammoth. Keep your eyes peeled for elk, which
often graze in meadows near the park’s north gate. The headquarters
at Mammoth initially served as an army post, and today
offers a variety of family-friendly activities. Stretch your legs
during a walking tour of the old facilities, visit the new visitor’s
center, or stroll the boardwalks along the Mammoth Hot
Springs terraces.
From Mammoth, take a scenic drive to the town of West
Yellowstone, Mont. Here you can learn more about the area’s
most notorious predators at the Grizzly and Wolf Discovery
Center, and enjoy a perspective on the park you won’t find anywhere
else with at the Yellowstone IMAX Theater.
Another, more intimate, park experience awaits at Harriman
State Park near Island Park, Idaho. Here you can see Sandhill
cranes, elk, and moose as you explore more than 20 miles of hiking,
biking, and horseback riding trails.
Return to Yellowstone and turn south at Madison, Wyo. to
visit Norris Geyser Basin, the most active geyser basin in
Yellowstone and an outstanding place for a hike with the family.
Old Faithful is the still most popular attraction in Yellowstone, and is a good base for an overnight stay. Sign the
kids up for a Junior Ranger Program, where they can learn about
geology, wildlife, plants, and other cool facets of Yellowstone.
Head south from Old Faithful, and take advantage of the region’s second national park—Grand
Teton National Park. Admittedly you
could spend several days exploring this
vast wilderness, but if you only have a
day or so, take the kids to Jenny Lake.
Ride a boat shuttle across the lake and
take a short hike into the rugged Tetons.
In the evening, head down to Wilson,
Wyo., and the Bar J Chuckwagon for a
plate of barbecue beef, beans, coleslaw,
and spice cake.
Before returning to Yellowstone, stop
for a horseback ride at either the
Jackson Lake Dam or the Colter Bay corrals.
Both sites have lodging and other
activities as well, including float trips on
the Snake River.
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Back in Yellowstone, follow the
southern loop through the park by traveling
east to Fishing Bridge, and then
north through Canyon, Wyo. to
Roosevelt, Wyo. Here you can spend the
night in a cabin, and take a horseback
ride or a wagon ride to a cookout. Exit
Yellowstone by crossing to the northeast
gate of the park through the Lamar
Valley, the area where wolves were reintroduced
into Yellowstone.
When you leave Yellowstone, take a
break in the small town of Cooke City,
Mont., before turning south onto Hwy.
296 into the Sunlight Basin, a largely
undeveloped park frequented by mountain
men in the 19th century. Follow the
Chief Joseph Scenic Highway (Hwy.
120) southeast to Cody, Wyo.
Cody, one of the state’s most Western
towns, is the perfect place to wrap up
your tour of the Yellowstone region. The
entire family will find something of
interest at the Buffalo Bill Historical
Center—whether it is the Deadwood
Stagecoach used by Buffalo Bill, the
guns at the Cody Firearms Museum, the
unparalleled art of the Whitney Gallery
of Western Art, the nature displays at
the Draper Museum of Natural History,
or the Native American displays in the
Plains Indian Museum.
If you have a bit more time, take the
family to a rodeo—there is one every
night during the summer at the Cody
Stampede grounds—enjoy a float trip
on the Shoshone River, or spend a few
days at a guest ranch.
CONTACTS
Yellowstone National Park:
(307) 344-7381, www.nps.gov/yell
Museum of the Rockies:
(406) 994-3466, www.museumoftherockies.org
Harriman State Park:
1-866-634-3246,
http://parksandrecreation.idaho.gov
Grand Teton National Park:
(307) 739-3300, www.nps.gov/grte
Buffalo Bill Historical Center:
(307) 587-4771, www.bbhc.org
From City to Coast
in the Pacific Northwest top
By JoAnn Roe
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Your family adventure through the Pacific Northwest
begins deep underground in the marble chambers of
Oregon Caves National Monument, an hour’s drive from
Grants Pass, Ore. The 90-minute, half-mile guided tour winds
through one of the most unique geologic formations in the
country. Topside, four hiking trails cross an old-growth forest.
Afterward, parents might appreciate a stop at nearby
Bridgeview Vineyard and Winery in the Illinois Valley before
continuing south into California. Stop for a short hike through
Jedediah Smith Redwood State Park, a World Heritage Site and
Biosphere Reserve, near Crescent City, Calif. When you walk
among these giants their special smell—part evergreen, part
musty dampness, part sun-warmed wood and earth—is as
memorable as their immense height.
Book a room in Crescent City, which fronts a saltwater harbor
and backs up to redwoods and mountains. The next morning
it’s off to Ocean World, where you can touch creatures such
as sea anemone, starfish, even a shark. The daily sea lion shows
are also a big draw.
It’s time for more water-filled thrills as you drive north to the
City of Gold Beach, Ore., situated at the mouth of the Rogue
River. Book a jet boat ride and venture upriver on a thrilling halfor
full-day trip. When you’re ready to unwind, drive back on 101
just north of Brookings, Ore., to Harris Beach State Park and the adjacent Samuel H. Boardman State Parks
and let the kids run off their energy while
you soak in fantastic ocean views framed
by the Oregon coast’s iconic sea stacks.
Ask locals where to leave Gold Beach
inland toward Powers, Ore., and pick up
Hwy. 42 east to Winston, Ore. Winston’s
600-acre Wildlife Safari, a nonprofit
zoological park, is dedicated to conservation,
education, and research in veterinary
and biological medicine. It’s also
like a mini-safari adventure as you drive
through the 4.5-mile long compound
near free-roaming animals. There’s also
a petting zoo for younger visitors.
Go north on I-5 to Sutherlin, Ore., then
cut west back toward the coast to visit the
Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area.
Ocean currents and wind constantly
shape these massive dunes. Particles
have blown so far inland that dunes cover
whole forests and hills as many as two
miles from the ocean. Check into the tour
“bus” that goes onto the dunes for a fun
and thrilling ride that plunges over some
incredibly steep sand cliffs.
Just north of Florence, Ore., another
unforgettable experience awaits at the
Sea Lion Caves. Hundreds of sea lions
gain access to these protected breeding
grounds by riding strong ocean surges
through the cave’s mouth. You, however,
can take an elevator down into the damp
and noisy cave for an up-close encounter.
You could easily spend several days
exploring the coast, including the lighthouses
at Heceta Head and Yaquina
Head; the Mark O. Hatfield Marine
Science Center aquarium in Newport,
Ore.; or the shopping at Oregon’s largest
factory outlet mall near Lincoln City.
When you’re ready for a change of
pace, take a scenic drive north along
the shore then cut inland for Portland,
Ore. Portland sits on the Columbia
River, and is a seaport for ocean-going
vessels that navigate nearly 100 miles
inland. Abundant green space and the
picturesque Willamette River are also
natural attractions. Spend time browsing
through Powell’s City of Books, the
largest new and used bookstore in
America, or tracing the events of history
at the Oregon Historical Society
Museum. The Oregon Museum of
Science and Industry offers narrated
jet boat rides and an Omnimax Dome
Theater, while at the World Forestry
Center you walk through a living
indoor forest.
CONTACTS
Oregon Caves National Monument:
(541) 592-2100; www.nps.gov/orca
Jedediah Smith Redwood State Park:
(707) 458-3018; www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=413
City of Gold Beach:
1-800-525-2334, www.goldbeach.org
Oregon State Parks:
1-800-551-6949; www.oregon.gov/oprd/parks
Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area:
(541) 750-7000, www.fs.fed.us/r6/siuslaw/recreation/tripplanning/oregondunes/
Portland, Ore.:
(503) 823-4000, www.portlandonline.com
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