 Fine Dining, Texas-Style
by Kelly Davidson
Fort Worth bistro blends quality ingredients and understated elegance for a fresh, uniquely Western concept.
Times are surely changing in the Lone Star State. Texas grub used to mean chili, barbeque, or Tex Mex, or a messy combo of all three. Nowadays, these old favorites still reign supreme, but more elegant fare is redefining the way people think about Texas cuisine.
At Bonnell's Restaurant in Fort Worth, chef-owner Jon Bonnell serves jazzed-up wild game, fresh gulf seafood, and organic beef to a packed house—cowhands, ranchers, and city slickers alike. Signature entrees, like pepper crusted, center-cut buffalo tenderloin topped with smoked whiskey cream sauce, dazzle the palate. Sides, like mac 'n' goat cheese, green chili cheese grits, and jalapeno parmesan creamed spinach, add Texas flair to much-loved staples.
Bonnell's style—“Fine Texas Dining,” as he calls it—stresses high-end ingredients with upscale presentation. Unlike some chefs who put recipes above all else, Bonnell developed his recipes based on local offerings. “Texas cuisine should embody the spirit of Texas and celebrate our local farmers and ranchers,” he says. “I try to use ingredients that are right here, that require one truck, one driver for delivery.” In cultivating his menu, Bonnell chose
only premium Texas products-free range
meats, organic produce, and specialty
cheeses. He visited farms, fisheries, and
ranches throughout Texas, and took the
time to understand their principles and
processes before building relationships with
a select few. From there, his menu took
shape. Quality selections from Broken
Arrow Ranch, Frontier Meats, and Diamond
H Ranch inspired his popular "mixed grill"
option-a combination plate with homemade
Andouille sausage, a wild boar chop, spirand
a choice of venison medallions, buffalo
tenderloin, quail, or lamb loin. 
When it came to dreaming up his recipes,
Bonnell took cues from his neighbors.
Louisiana's soulful concoctions gave way to
his homemade Creole spice blend. New
Mexico, Arizona, and California's fiery
fusions added ample of zest to his guajillo
chile sauce and jalapeno vinaigrette dressing.
And Mexico's influences can be seen and
tasted throughout the menu but are hard to
miss in his smoked-chicken stacked enchiladas-
topped with salsa verde, guacamole,
and pico de gallo, of course.
Bonnell, a Fort Worth native who regularly
participates in cutting horse competitions,
understands a cowboy's misgivings toward
places with white tablecloths and candlelight.
His healthy portions and comfortable
ambiance defy traditional fine dining concepts.
"People pay a premium price and
should get a full plate," he says. "No one goes
hungry at my place. That's one of my rules."
He keeps the atmosphere upscale yet
relaxed. Mahogany finishes add warmth,
while local photography and Western accents
keep the motif distinctly Texan. "You'll never
get anything snooty around here," Bonnell
says. "This is Fort Worth fancy."
FROM BONNELL'S KITCHEN TO YOURS
IF YOU CAN'T MAKE THE TRIP TO FORT WORTH, BRING BONNELL'S GRUB TO YOUR TABLE.
PREPARE THEIR TRIED-AND-TRUE FAVORITES WITH THESE RECIPES AND TIPS.
Roasted Tomato and Jalapeno Soup
(Serves 6)
15 ripe tomatoes
1 extra large sweet onion (sliced into large rings)
3-4 cloves garlic (chopped)
3-4 fresh jalapenos
2 limes (juice only)
Extra virgin olive oil
Creole seasoning blend to taste
Salt and pepper to taste
Slice the jalapenos in half and
remove the white veins and seeds.
Grill the tomatoes, jalapenos, and
onion until well charred on the outsides.
In a large soup pot, simmer the
onions, tomatoes, jalapenos, and
garlic with a touch of olive oil for 1-2
hours. Puree with a stick blender,
strain, add lime juice, and season to
taste. Garnish the top with a little
lime-flavored sour cream and
chopped cilantro.
Roasted Green Chili
Cheese Grits
(Serves 5)
1 tsp butter
1/2 cup chopped onion
1 roasted poblano chiles (chopped)
1 tsp chopped garlic
1 cup chicken stock
1 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup quick grits
2 oz grated cheddar cheese
2 oz grated jack cheese
Salt and pepper to taste
Creole seasoning blend to taste
Sauté the chiles, onions, and garlic in butter until soft. Add cream and
chicken stock, and bring to simmer (the stage just before a roiling boil).
Be careful not to let the liquids boil over. Quickly whisk in seasonings
and grits. Stir constantly until grits begin to thicken. Gently fold in
cheeses and let sit for at least five minutes.
Bonnell's Jalapeno Garlic
Vinaigrette House Dressing
(Serves 4)
4 jalapeno peppers (seeds and veins removed)
4 cloves garlic (peeled)
3 limes (juice only)
2 tbsp parmesan cheese
11/2 tbsp dijon mustard
1 small bunch cilantro
2/3 cup oil (extra virgin and vegetable mixed)
Salt and pepper to taste (approx. 11/2 tsp of each)
Place all ingredients except oil in a blender. Mix until uniform texture
is reached. Drizzle the oil in last, very slowly. Check salt and pepper
seasonings.
Bacon-Wrapped Pork
Tenderloin with Parker County
Peach Barbeque Sauce
(Serves 4)
2 pork tenderloins
8-10 thick bacon slices
Clean the pork tenderloins of any sinews, then portion into 4-6 ounce
pieces. Season the pork well, then wrap each piece of pork tenderloin in
bacon and place a toothpick through each to keep the bacon from
coming off during cooking. Begin cooking the pieces over an open grill,
then turn the heat to low and pull down the lid to finish cooking. After
the meat has cooked, remove from the grill and take out the toothpicks.
Arrange on a platter and serve with Bonnell's Parker County Peach
Barbeque Sauce and green chili cheese grits.
Parker County
Peach Barbeque Sauce
4 local fresh peaches
3 ancho chiles (stems and seeds removed)
1 sweet onion, diced
12 oz ketchup
1/2 bunch cilantro, diced
3 oz brown sugar
3 oz butter
3 oz bourbon
1 lime, juiced
1 pint chicken stock
Salt and pepper to taste
Sauté the onions in butter until soft. Add remaining ingredients and
bring to simmer. Allow to simmer lightly for approximately 15 minutes.
Puree with a stick blender until smooth, and then check for seasonings.
Plate Panache
CHEF BONNELL DISHES ON HOW TO MAKE EVERYDAY
MEALS SOMETHING EXTRAORDINARY.
You don't have to be a gourmet chef to add a little
pizzazz to your presentation. A little garnish and a few artistic
techniques will dazzle your guests and boost your culinary
confidence. Without too much expertise, you too can make
your plates look restaurant-quality. These tips from Bonnell's
Restaurant make it easy.
These examples use grilled pork tenderloin, barbeque
sauce, spinach, and rice pilaf, but the methods are easily
adaptable for plenty of typical meals.
Cutting on the Bias 
Use a soup cup or coffee cup to mold the rice pilaf in the middle of the
plate. Instead of serving the pork whole, cut the meat on the bias (on a
slant) to expose the different shapes and colors of the beautiful pink center.
Pool the sauce in front, and divide the spinach into three separate piles with
some chopped tomato for color contrast. Place chives into the rice to add
height and contrast.
Bonnell's Special Tips
Always divide items on a plate into an odd
number of groups. Artistically, odd numbers work better than even.
Use fresh herbs and decorative items for garnish but only when they
make sense with the recipe. The best garnishes complement the flavors
in the dish. Avoid superfluous garnish that will end up in the trash.
Radial Symmetry 
Use a ring mold to start. Add rice
pilaf to the middle of the mold.
Then pack tightly with the back of a
spoon. Add the spinach on top, and
garnish with chopped tomatoes.
Gently slide off the ring mold and
continue the plate by placing some
of the sauce around in a circle.
(Remember the rule of odds, from
above.) Then slice the pork into
medallions to show off the center
color and lean them up around the
plate. Don't be afraid to leave some
of the plate showing.
Bonnell's Special Tips
Pieces of
PVC pipe can be cut to use as ring
molds, or metal ones can be purchased
from gourmet shops.
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